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Kingsbarns Golf Links, Kingsbarns, Scotland


J.F. Abercromby, the original architect of the Old Course at Bovey Castle, was a storied English architect whose reputation was esteemed, on the merits of his own original work and some joint ventures with some of the finest architects of the day. Renowned for his understated designs that fit the natural flow of the landscape so well, the personality of his work was a perfect match for the idyllic parkland setting here in Dartmoor National Park, in Devon County in Southwestern England. The course, which sits at the foot of the glorious old manor house, has a beautiful flow down through the front nine while adjacent to the river. The second half moves back toward the estate's higher ground, where some dramatic and difficult golf holes form the closing stretch.

The setting is reminiscent of its original sister course at Gleneagles, which many have dubbed one of the finest inland courses anywhere. As far as scenery goes, the Old Course here is no slouch, as the gorgeous Devon countryside serves as the backdrop for the upper holes, while the dramatic namesake castle presides over the lowland front nine. The only fault was a period of neglect, when time wore on the original Abercromby that was designed in the late 1920s. Peter de Savary’s acquisition of the course brightened hopes for its future, and the resurrection of this gem has been expertly coordinated. Electing not to plow the course under in favour a modern course, Donald Steel and Tom Mackenzie were hired to restore and enhance the preexisting "bones" of the course. Given the success of Steel and Mackenzie’s work at Skibo Castle (de Savary’s previous property), it is little wonder why the duo was called to Dartmoor for the task. The course as it exists now is not brutishly long, giving the holiday golfer a fighting chance, while testing any low marker to play to their handicap. The recent work has added pot bunkers and some new putting surfaces, as well as better drainage and more playability. The closing hole is a case in point; where there was once a sloping fairway so severe that it seemed equally awkward and unfair, the Mackenzie-Steel team softened the left-to-right slope to create a more reasonable landing area. However, at 432 yards uphill, from the back tees, the hole still possesses the challenge that ‘Aber’ would have envisioned. In keeping with active nature of the estate, the course is eminently walkable, though buggies do exist for those wishing to conserve their energy, or for those hoping to play a quick evening round and beat the sunset.

The addition to the end of the original castle has meant that teeing off the first hole (a 309-yard par four) has become something more of a spectacle, with the shadow of the pro shop and castle from the right. Thankfully, the hole offers the golfer the chance to get off the tee with an iron or fairway wood and save the driver for the second hole of the day. Immediately plunging to the valley floor, the first hole plays sharply downhill and the approach is with a short iron to a green that is open on the right side and protected left by bunkers. The seemingly gentle start does afford the golfer the chance the make an opening par, but the river that runs along the left side of the hole, before slicing in front of the green some forty yards shy of the putting surface, must be avoided.

In contrast to the forgiving opener, the second hole, a 382-yard par four, plays back towards the castle. After a decent drive, the golfer faces an approach that has to carry the river that runs diagonally in front of the green, hugging the right side of the surface. Steel and Mackenzie cut a bunker into the hillside left, and its sod-walled face leaves no doubt in the golfer that bailing left is no more attractive than the watery grave right. Should the pleasant walk from the first green to the second tee have left the golfer slightly dulled to the grandeur of the place, coming out of the trees to see the magnificent castle again can feel like a small homecoming.

The third is another challenging hole, measuring a daunting 208 yards from the back tees. The tee shot is played through a chute of trees and must carry the full distance to a green that is perilously perched in the pond guarding three sides. The tricky green is sure not to yield many birdie putts, so a cautious two-putt is exactly what the doctor ordered. To understand the spirit of the estate, one can begin with the story of the third green, which doubles as the target for impromptu late-night closest-to-the-pin competitions from the Castle’s front lawn.

The English golfing legend, Sir Henry Cotton, once proclaimed that the seventh hole was possibly the best par four in British in-land golf”. With the compliment coming from no less then a three-time Open winner, it is little wonder that little has changed here today. The 384-yard hole is intertwined with the stream that snakes its way through the hole, creating two distinct fairways and the greenside protection. The long golfer can choose to carry the first fairway and the stream at its end in pursuit of the second fairway. However, with a little wind into the golfer, a very good strike is required. From either fairway, the approach is more difficult from the right side, which causes the golfer to play over the water entirely to the green. From the left side, the absence of bunkers allows for a straightforward approach that needs to be struck with authority.

After climbing to higher ground to begin the back nine, the golfer is greeted by the challenging 11th hole, which plays to a brutish 451 yards from the exhibition markers. The drive is played over a valley to a ridge that offers a generous fairway, so accuracy can be sacrificed for a little extra length. The approach, however, is another demanding test, which begs the golfer to hit a long club over the river valley to a green where the safest miss is long.

After the demanding par-four 11th, the golfer is treated to a few short holes, including the back-to-back par fours at 13 and 14. The 13th measures a seemingly modest 323 yards, but boasts a string of four bunkers on the left side, leading into the green and a large stand of trees on the right. Laying up is the prudent play and leaves a short pitch into the tricky green.

Coming back towards the North Gate is the devilish 14th hole, playing to just 280 yards. Although the scorecard indicates that the hole may be a pushover, few good players would dare to flirt with the green from the tee. Set between two stands of trees, the opening through which to approach the green is very narrow, not to mention the difficult deep bunkers that guard the green. If the golfer elects to lay up, thought is still required to leave a position that allows the second shot to have a clear shot to the green.

After the visually stunning 17th hole, the golfer arrives at the challenging closing hole. Playing slightly uphill, the golfer must find the driving area while avoiding the bunkers that guard its right side. Although the right side leaves a better view of the pin, it also leaves a longer approach. Despite being blocked out by the steep left to right slope, the left side of the fairway is the ideal place to play the approach from. Bunkers guard the lower right side of the green and gobble up shots left short, which kick in from the slope. Aiming left is essential and even if the golfer cannot muster the full approach, the downhill left-to-right slope will help run the ball in. The strategy of this fine closing hole is better revealed to the golfer on subsequent trips around the course, which seems to generally hide its secrets well. It is a combination of this unfolding mystery and spectacular setting that gives the golfer reason to be drawn back, time after time. Surely Abercromby’s legacy lives on in the Old Course, and the expert touch of Sirs Mackenzie and Steel deserve full credit for its preservation.

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