When industrialist Baron Marcel Bich ( creator
of the Bic pen brand) and businessman Yoshiaki Sokurai sat down, as friends in
life and business, to conceive of a new golf getaway in the Loire Valley, the
visions they brought were unusually similar. Here was a part of the world already
romanticized, where the quintessence of French country life was captured. Regal
chateaux spot the hillsides. Vineyards roll through copses of trees. As the
country’s intellectual capital in the medieval days, Orleans and the
surrounding countryside was home to artisans, merchants, chefs, troubadors,
poets, and the like. Unfettered lands and
intellectualism presided over the area. Cultural depth was paramount. It
was the same virtues of the good life, no doubt, that Bich and Sokurai
envisioned for the golf resort they set out to build. The end goal was a
place that would appeal to the game’s great enthusiasts, those who
could appreciate an opening drive down a dew-soaked fairway at dawn.
Richness of
experience, in all its interpretations, was the dimension that the
founders of Les Bordes felt would attract travellers from all over the
world, while still indulging their own desires. To help draw the
international client to a particularly elegant parcel of French
countryside, the men decided to entrust Texan Robert von Hagge with the
design, a name synonymous with expertise in American golf. With over 200
designs around the world on a variety of different landscapes, von Hagge
is widely considered one of the most versatile championship architects.
On the lakelands and treed space of the Les Bordes estate, where Bich
once hunted for sport, the course winds its way through ancient, elegant
forest, and the same atmosphere pervades the entire complex.
Rooms at Les Bordes
are simple enough, fitting seamlessly in the surrounding environment.
With vaulted roofs and exposed oak beams, each cottage-style
accommodation is individually designed to reflect the countrified
ambiance of the French woodlands. Handmade furnishings, elegant light
fixtures and a luxurious bathroom equipped with plush towels makes each
room seem customized. There are no “neighbours,” per say. Your
rustic chalet in the woods feels as though it could be miles away from
civilization. With Orleans 35 kilometers to the north, it almost is.
Taking the opportunity to explore some of the cultural capital in the
region is essential. This is not the France of generic expectation or
preconceptions. It is distinctly not Paris, a world-class destination
with its very own nervy character. The environs to the south of Orleans,
where the Sologne forest adjoins the river valley, must be explored on
any visit. Like a backwoods fairytale, guests are invited to traipse
through the forest and enjoy everything to be found outside your door.
Old cathedrals, ancient market towns, and abundant wildlife can be found
throughout the Loire Valley, and much of this
vitality is infused in all aspects of Les Bordes resort.
Once a hunting
estate, it comes as no surprise that the dining experience here is
exceptional. The fixed evening menu in the main dining room clearly
aspires to brings authentically French flavours to the palate, and the
overall impression is one of divine balance. Duck liver pate, deer
fillet, steamed turbot, veal kidneys and cheeseboard salad are among the
choices. As expected, the wine menu to complement
these dishes is extensive, borrowing greatly from some of the fine
vineyards located right in the valley. At the head of the list is the
Baron’s own St.
Emilion Grand Cru, a fine locally produced vintage that pairs
beautifully with much of the menu. While dinner is the highlight, there
are a myriad of occasions to enjoy the fresh ingredients of the region.
Breakfast can be a strong cup of French roast with a freshly baked
pastry, and a chitlin sausage with a cheese platter makes for a fine
late lunch.
The charm of the
experience comes from the
subtle details of luxury. Despite a budget that saw no limit, the resort
fits seamlessly in with the environment and culture of the Loire Valley.
The baron and Mr. Sakurai could have easily allowed their affluence to
effect the style and décor, but the Baron’s
ambitions from the beginning, to make this prestigious club in the
woods, was to ensure it retained an allegiance to traditions. To that
end, it was made perfectly clear that as little
disturbance as possible was to be made to the surroundings during
construction, and the baron’s wife was charged with the details of décor.
Exuding an air of privilege and privacy, but noticeably absent of
pretensions, this little oasis in the lake-riddled woods south of Paris
is a spectacular overseas destination, or a weekend reprieve from the
bustle of a major city.
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