The
Pacific Northwest, historically speaking, could make no more
than a scarce claim to be a regional golf destination equal to
other parts of the country, but beginning with Port Ludlow's
opening in 1975, the game has grown in popularity over the
last 30 years. No longer is Pebble Beach the last great golf
destination moving north along the Pacific Coast: Bandon
Dunes, Pumpkin Ridge, and lastly, Port Ludlow in the shallows
of Puget Sound, near the Canadian border, mark a continuation
of the game's great venues into the stunning setting of the
Pacific Northwest.
Among tall stand of evergreens and flanked by the Olympic
Mountain range on one side and
Puget Sound
on the other. Seemingly defying description, it is little
wonder why the course has been celebrated as one of the most
beautiful in the world. The tree stumps of trees gone by are
reason alone for astonishment, with their massive roots and
trunks, they remain to pay tribute, presiding along the sides
of the holes. With the addition of a third nine – the Trail
nine – in 1990, the reputation could only of golf at Port
Ludlow was only furthered, as
Robert Muir Graves created the most dramatic nine on the most
severe land the property had to offer. Today, the course remains
one of the finest in the Northwest, and with the Inn is
truly one of the most unique destinations in the
United States
.
Muir
Graves carved the original 18 holes straight out of the
evergreen forest,
which is evident from the first tee of the Tide course as it
plunges downhill to a fairway framed by the trees. The green
complex is framed back in the forest between two
bunkers, which forces the uphill approach to be handled
delicately to this tiny green.
Using
the downhill geography once more, the second hole is a classic
short par four, measuring 357 yards. The expansive view of the
water acts as a distraction to the task at hand, which
requires a wise lay-up to the flat portion of fairway on the
right side. This leaves an easy approach to the green, and
gives the best chance of avoiding the front bunker. Long
drives demand perfect accuracy, and even then, the leave is a
tricky pitch over said trap
Just
as the 178-yard third is a tricky proposition, where the long
iron tee shot must be arrow-straight between two towering
conifers that stand like uprights, the
second par three, slightly shorter in yardage but playing
uphill, can be a clever test as well. From a tee deck accented
by a tree stump set in its center, the 146-yard shot must
carry two greenside bunkers which will catch the slightest
mishits. The green sits in a shallow
setting, making the centre of the green the most attractive
play.
The
Timber Nine, the original back nine of the first 18 holes ,
has a series of highlights that one expects from a stretch of
holes originally designed to bring closure to the experience
here. Most of the Timber nine charts downward into the valley
of the property, making for a series of enjoyable tee shots
with great views, and the chance to hit some heroic drives.
The 403-yard second is one such scenario, but any tee shot
running down the right might be blocked out by a stand of
pines. The play is a bomb up the left edge, which will bound
down to a relatively flat lie and leave a simple shot into a
welcoming green. Conversely, the 428-yard fourth plays up the
same hill, typifying the gradual elevation changes of the
area. With a green literally set between towering stands of
conifers, the approach, like many at Port Ludlow, must be
razor-straight. To find a tucked pin, here and everywhere else
on the course, one has to work the ball expertly toward the
hole. Generally speaking, playing smartly to fairways and
greens is of paramount importance at Port Ludlow, where errant
shots always create pitch outs, from the woods back to the
fairway.
In
the closing run of holes, a soft 7th hole sets up the 171-yard
eighth, the final short hole on the nine and one of the
prettier, if deceptively difficult, holes at Port Ludlow. A
small pond lies at the bottom of the hill between tee and
green, out of play but ominous nonetheless. Small moss and
rock gardens spot the fairway and the greenside, adding an odd
aesthetic element that works quite well with the hole, located
almost in a meadow-like area of the property. The problem is
that the gardens will cost players a shot, so the sight must
be ignored until a well-struck iron is played to the middle of
the green.
The
most recent addition to the resort is the Trail nine, which
Muir Graves came back to design in the early 1990s, some 16 or
so years after
the original 18 opened. Although it is apparent the styles are
somewhat different, given the passage of time and direction of
design trends, the striking
difference is the much more rugged land that
Graves
had to use. Set farther up the hillside, the Trail nine must
navigate across a couple of ravines and sharp elevation
changes. Rather than gradual coastal slopes, this can qualify
as mountain golf, and offers an interesting contrast to the
original 18. The scenery is more striking, the photo
opportunities more numerous, and the shot values, unique, if
unusual.
The second hole on the Trail Nine is a microcosm of the
experience, a perfect example of the ruggedness and beauty of
the golf. From an elevated tee, players shoot out to a green
set far below, flanked on three sides by sand and set before
Puget Sound and the Olympic Mountains in the distance.
There is something particularly thrilling about watching the
tee shot rise against the drama to fall to a small green
peacefully perched, making a par even sweeter.
Downhill approaches are a recurring theme on the Trail Nine:
at the following hole, a reachable par five with a green
fronted by a thick stream, and at the beginning of the final
three holes, a par 3-5-4 configuration that brings the drama
of the nine to a climactic close.
The seventh is a 181-yard par three that
plays across a gulch to a green fortified in front by two
bunkers. The aforementioned change in styles from the original
course extends particularly to the greens and seven is no
exception, with a tiered green that demands the golfer find
the appropriate shelf. Balls left above the hole can make par
a trying result. At the 551-yard eighth, the tee shot is over
a large swath of gully to a plummeting fairway that seems to
run downhill along a narrow ridge: misses to either side
usually result in a lost ball. Obviously the hole plays
shorter than its listed yardage, but the challenge remains. With forest
bordering both sides of the hole, accuracy is the key
ingredient and will help the golfer set up for a short-iron
approach to a green that protected by a couple of large
bunkers. The left side of the fairway opens up the approach
and leaves a relatively easy chance at par or better.
Another
elevated tee awaits the golfer on the closing hole, a 403-yard par four. The fairway levels out at the 150-yard mark
and then plays back up the hill to the multi-tiered green. The
key trouble is the hazard that flanks the left side of the
fairway, pushing golfers to the right side and leaving a more
difficult approach over the lone greenside bunker. At least
one extra club is needed on the approach, forcing the golfer
to muster up one more mighty blow to have any chance of
finishing strong.
The
three nines offer the golfer an interesting diversity of holes
that highlights not only the fabulous landscape, but the
evolution of Graves' work. The greatest tribute to the greatness of the golf course
is the fact that the three nines are probably equally favoured
by golfers, proving the property does not have a weak link. It
is this solid golf and stunning setting that have secured Port
Ludlow as one of the great golf resorts in the northwest.
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